Included in the DIY Kit
- 1 package 1″ brass nails
- Four 1/2″ brass nails
- Four brass screws
- 2 x brass hinges
- 2 x brass latches
- 2 x brass handles
- 2 x brass knobs
- 2 x brass lid stays
- 1 x brass hasp and hook
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Glue (any)
- Corner clamp (aka miter clamp)
- Wood glue
- Spray-on clear lacquer
Outer Box Assembly (primarily using the ½” thick pieces)
Before we start:
- If you make a mistake with nailing, just tap the board out again with a hammer. No big deal.
- Everything should line up nicely, but if you find yourself needing to be a little off, it’s better to give yourself more interior space than less.
- The lid and the base may not line up perfectly. As long as it’s close, the hinges and latches will take care of the rest.
Bottom, sides, and front walls
- Find the left and right sides and the bottom.
- Sides: Marked ‘L’ and ‘R’, 6.6″ x 11.2″. The engraved letters will be on the outside of the box.
- Bottom: 11.3″ wide x 10.95″ deep.
- Using a 90 degree clamp (preferably), line up the bottom with the front edge of one of the sides. Note that these will not be the same length; the bottom is 1/4″ shorter than the side. The nail holes go along the bottom of the box, so that the nails will go through the side and into the bottom.
- Nail the side to the bottom. Repeat with the other side.
- Place your three-sided box on the table, and align the front. Nail into place.
- You should have a four-sided box, with the letter L on the left side (facing outward), R on the right side, everything lined up flush on the front side, and not flush on the rear side.
- Align the rear of the box and nail the sides into place, not the bottom.
- If you look inside the box, there’s a 1/4″ gap between the bottom and the rear. You have two pieces marked ‘Bottom Rear Interior.’ Apply a little glue to those, and slide them into that gap to fill it up. You can hide the text against the box wall.
- Once that’s dry, the nail holes should all line up. Nail the rear to the bottom.
- Insert the two pieces marked ‘Do Not Glue’ through the slot in the front of the box, and press them against the left and right walls. Don’t glue them in place (big surprise, I know).
- Insert the second floor into the box. This is another 11.3″ x 10.95″ piece. You need to tap this into place so that it’s sitting firmly on top of the ‘Do Not Glue’ pieces and in front of (not on top of) those two ‘Bottom Rear Interior’ pieces you glued in place to fill in the gap. Be forceful; I like to hold a hammer by the grip and ram it straight down into the corners of the second floor to ensure it’s gone down as far as it will go.
- Nail the second floor in place, all around the box.
- Remove the ‘Do Not Glue’ spacers. They should be tight and difficult to remove, but they’ll come out. If you need to, you can pry them out with a flat-head screwdriver; you’re done with these, so don’t worry about breaking them.
- Find the front and the rear of the lid. The front is marked ‘F’, the rear is marked ‘B’, and those letters should end up right-side-up, and on the outside of the box.
- Using a right-angle clamp, secure the front to one of the box lid sides. Place one of the other pieces of wood under the other side of the lid side, so it’s braced when you nail it together. And then, nail it together.
- Repeat for the other side of the front.
- Flip it over and do the rear. This is a little easier because you’ve already secured the front.
- Line up the six top planks so that the grain of the wood runs attractively across them. These were all made from one piece of wood. Make sure you have them all same-side up; one side of the wood will have more burn marks than the other, and this should be the inside.
- One of the planks has four small holes in it. This will be the frontmost.
- You have your planks lined up, you know which one should be in front, and you have the front and back on and aligned. Start nailing, aligning a plank with one of the six flat sections of the lid. The edges of the planks should be pretty much flush with the sides of the lid, but you have a little leeway here. I like to start in the middle.
When putting pieces together, dab white glue along the edges that will make contact. It doesn’t take a lot, but adds strength. Use glue that dries clear.
If a piece has something engraved on it for assembly help, you can always hide the engraving inside a joint or against a wall.
Attaching the front plate & knobs
- Find the tray base – it’s a large piece, 11.25” x 11″.
- Glue the two small, irregular pieces in place (A). (Marked ‘Start with These’ on the image above)
- There may be a third piece of the same shape, unmarked. This is in case I lose one during production or you lose one during assembly. You may find extras of other small pieces as you go forward, as well.
- Glue in all of the 1.4″ wide dividers that hold the knobs in place. They can all only fit one way. From back to front:
- Medium-sized hole (B)
- Very small hole (C)
- 1/2″ thick piece with small hole (D)
- Very large hole (E)
- Give that plenty of time to dry.
- Find the two knobs and get their long screws. Insert the screw from the back, through those four dividers, then through the drawer’s front plate (1/2″ thick, 11.25″ wide, with two holes in it). The back of the screw should be inset into the rear hole, and the knob should be recessed a little into the front plate. Repeat on the other side and screw together tightly.
Adding the walls and dividers
- Glue in the horizontal wall (F), 11.25″ wide.
- Find the left and right walls (G), 11″ wide. Carefully slide them on to all the tabs of the dividers, and glue. These don’t have a lot of support in the rear, so I’d even recommend using your right-angle clamp to hold the rear side securely while it dries.
- Finally, slide the two vertical walls (H) into the slots in the horizontal divider.
From here, the tray can be configured to use either the original player boards, or my deluxe wooden player boards.
- To use the deluxe wooden boards, you’re done.
- To use the original player boards, there are three pieces you need to find – a flat base plate, 3.7″ x 7.4″, and two short walls, one 3.7″ wide (Y) and one 8.7″ wide (Z). Glue these together, and you have a spacer for the original player boards, as well as a space to hold the RDI 5 character-unique player boards.
Lower box (deck slots)
Lower Box Dividers – Deck Slots
The front of the box is the side with the slot, as if you were opening the chest. Left and right are in reference to that perspective.
This section doesn’t need glue; the friction of the pieces will hold it all together.
- Insert the rear wall (1)
- Insert the left wall (2)
- Insert the center and front horizontal dividers (3 and 4)
- Insert the right wall (5)
- You’re ready to insert all the other vertical dividers. One last thing: insert the rear horizontal divider (6) and use vertical dividers to keep it in place. The rear horizontal divider should be centered inside the box.
- You have two square spacers (7). Glue one each against the left and right walls of the box, inside the long card slots in the upper-left and upper-right. This spacer is just there to prevent your cards from slipping up into the upper tray and getting damaged.
- Start with the large (11″ x 11″) piece that’s covered with slots. It has markers for ‘This side up’ and ‘Front.’
- Insert the center wall (J)
- Insert the side walls (K)
- Insert these at an angle, slot in the bottom pegs, then lean them up against the center wall and glue.
- Insert the rear wall (L)
- Insert the front wall (M)
- Glue everything and let it dry.
- Insert gold divider (N). This has three prongs on the bottom.
- Insert deck dividers (O). There are 10 of these, 9 on the right side and 1 on the left.
- The next step depends on whether you have the Gambling, I’m In! expansion, and whether you sleeve your cards.
- If you have the Rogues & Warriors deck, and you sleeve, insert divider P on the front side, leaving a 3-deck-wide slot on the back side.
- If you have the Rogues & Warriors deck, and you don’t sleeve, insert both dividers Q on the back side, leaving a 2-deck-wide slot on the front side.
- If you do not have the Rogues & Warriors deck and don’t plan to get it, insert all dividers P and Q.
Tray edge borders
There are short borders around the front and rear of the tray. Each border is two short pieces and one very long piece, only 1/4″ tall.
Insert the short pieces first. The short pieces in the front have a rounded edge, and the short pieces in the back are all square edges.
Then glue the long pieces into place. The longer piece is for the front.
Dividing the gold tray
You can optionally add a horizontal divider to your gold area. If you aren’t storing your RDI5 player boards in the lower tray (because you have my deluxe player boards, perhaps) then you can store them here, in the upper tray. You might also want the space for an Event deck.
If you want to add the horizontal divider:
- Glue in large piece R.
- There are two pieces with ‘Piece S‘ marked L and R. Glue these into the slot you’ve created on the left and right.
- Last, there are two long pieces (T). Glue these to the front and back of the slot, such that their tabs are sitting on the tall points of the side pieces.This all just gives you some space to get your fingers around the player boards.
If you’ve added the horizontal divider, you can also add a vertical divider to your gold area, such as if you want to have a dedicated Platinum space without using a token box. This is a fin-shaped divider, a little smaller than the others, with no tabs or markings.
You’ll be building 11 token boxes in total. Sometimes, the tabs will fit but the tops of the pieces won’t line up; this is because you’ll be adding nameplates later.
Seven narrow boxes
- The base plates are 1/2″ thick pieces.
- The backs have one tab (a)
- The sides have one tab, and have a sharply angled top (b)
- There are two types of piece (c): with a scooped front (for large, round tokens) and with a flat front (for small tokens). Build 3 of each. For the 7th box, it’s your choice whether to make it flat-front or scooped-front.
One semi-wide box (Remy’s marks)
- The base plate is a wide 1/2″ thick piece with no holes in it.
- The back has two tabs, piece (d)
- The sides have one tab, and a sharply angled top (b)
- There are two front pieces with one wide tab each (e)
One slightly narrower box (Drunken chi)
This box fits inside the box for Remy’s marks.
- The base plate is piece (f)
- The sides are pieces (g)
- The back is piece (h)
- The front is piece (i)
- There’s a central divider, piece (j)
Two widest boxes, divided into two sections
The base plates are 1/2″ thick pieces, with holes in them. One has the holes further forward (near the curved cutout)
Holes further forward
- The back is piece (k)
- Two front pieces (l)
- Two dividers with narrow pegs (m)
- The side pieces are last (n)
Holes further back
- The back is piece (k)
- Two front pieces (l)
- Two dividers with narrow pegs (o)
- The side pieces are last (p)
Finishing the box
Before you put the hardware on, it’s good to finish anything left on the box: sanding corners, painting pieces if desired, and applying lacquer, varnish, or sealant.
You’ll nail the Red Dragon Inn logo onto the first top plank, using the very short nails that have been provided. Using long nails will pierce the wood and your chest will be full of spikes!
- Two knobs for the drawer. These should already be screwed on.
- Two handles for the sides, four screws each.
- Two rear hinges, six screws each.
- Two front latches. You need to put 1/8″ thick plates between the latch and the box, or the screws will go through and scratch up your cards. The top plates are marked (@), while the bottom ones will be screwed through the large Red Dragon Inn logo.
- The hasp and hook that holds the drawer closed. Three screws for the top, two for the bottom.
- Two lid supports. These are installed inside the box, and are reversible. Install them so that they bend forward and upward as the box closes. The bottom holes are pre-drilled in the sides of the lower card tray. For the upper screws: install the lower screws, then open the box as far as feels right to you. Put in the upper screw close to the edge of the lid.
1/2″ brass screws: these reinforce the hinges in four places on the rear of the box. The entry holes are pre-cut, but you’ll want to drill pilot holes (using a 1/10″ drill bit or smaller) before screwing these in.
Nameplates and extras
Small token boxes: Can hold Progress Tokens, Wrench’s Gizmo Tokens, Bastian’s Prayers, Platinum Coins, Vlazo’s Blood, Amundyr’s Scarabs, Natyli’s Curses, and Miscellaneous Tokens. Set them up however you like.
Wide token boxes: The box with the divider further to the front should hold Adonis’s Instruments and Cormac’s Rage Tiles (two nameplates, ‘Cormac’s’ and ‘Rage’). The box with the divider further back holds Zariah’s Summons and Erin/Vlazo’s Current Form tokens (two nameplates, ‘Current’ and ‘Form’). I’m expecting Adonis’s Instruments to be about the size of Zariah’s Summons, but this might change before release.
Remy’s token box: Two nameplates, ‘Remy’s’ and ‘Marks’
Drunken Chi: One small nameplate to be installed on the left side of the box. There’s another unmarked nameplate for the right side, if we get another character with a single unique token.
Gold Coins: If you didn’t add a divider to your gold section, use the long ‘Gold Coins’ nameplate; otherwise, use the ‘Gold Coins’ nameplate and the small ‘Dice’ or ‘Platinum Coins’ nameplate, whatever you use it for.
Rogues & Warriors: You’ll use one of these two, depending on if you made a large or small slot.
Drink Decks get a single, long nameplate. Use the dividers from RDI5 if you like to keep your decks separate.
Buy Another Round card: This is for use with SlugFest’s suggested rules for combining Drink Decks: http://slugfestgames.com/30-card-drink-deck/